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Carol Brown goes on a visit to hotter climates as she uncovers the wines of Spain.
Head to the guts of Castilla-Leon and you end up within the predominantly white wine producing area of Rueda. Given its inland place to the north west of Madrid, Rueda is at first look not an apparent go-to zone for excellent white wines.
The latitude is likely to be Mediterranean however the local weather is continental with very chilly winters and scorching summer season days.
That is balanced out as Rueda sits on a excessive plateau at 700-870 metres above sea stage and there’s additionally a big distinction between day and evening time temperatures which helps retain a freshness of acidity within the grapes.
Rueda was the topic of a terrific latest masterclass hosted by Grasp of Wine, Sarah Jane Evans full with these useful little samples that had been delivered to my door.
The driving power of Rueda wines is the native Verdejo grape which accounts for round 98% of plantings. It’s distinctive – assume natural with fennel notes – an depth to the fruit and an virtually bitter (and I imply that in a nice means) end.
These characters do imply it’s an excellent candidate for chrome steel fermentation and getting older and a few producers are additionally utilizing lees getting older and barrel fermentation with wonderful outcomes.
The next three wines present simply how versatile Verdejo will be:
Bodegas Beronia Verdejo 2019, DO Rueda
Aromas of lemon peel, fennel, herb and white pepper lead on to a dry, tangy textured white with refreshing acidity with notes of grapefruit and herb. Ocado and Waitrose £8.99.
Bodegas Ramon Bilbao ‘Sobre Lias’ 2018, DO Rueda
Fermented in tulip formed concrete vats, this spends 8 months in French and Hungarian oak cask, lees stirring takes place including to the creamy texture. There are scents of zesty citrus and a touch of vanilla. It’s complicated and dry with the tang of pink grapefruit, white peach and fennel. The oak is so refined giving the wine an additional dimension. Priced £17.75 from greatwine.co.uk
Jose Pariente Barrel Fermented Verdejo 2019, DO Rueda
Fermented in 500 litre and 228 litre French oak, this Verdejo spends 10 months on the lees. Vanilla and spice, fleshy peach and aromatic herbs are within the scent profile. It’s one other wine with a beautiful texture, medium bodied and effectively balanced, it’s dry with a zing of acidity, citrus and spice. Priced £19.89 from bascofinefoods.com
Sauvignon
Sauvignon Blanc has settled in Rueda, the lengthy sunshine hours carry a floral and tropical facet to the wines. Castelo de Medina Sauvignon Blanc 2019, DO Rueda may be very aromatic with ripe notes of tropical mango and pink grapefruit. It’s dry and vibrant with a minerality, juicy peach and lime fruit and a protracted, lingering end. Priced £17.75 greatwine.co.uk
If both Verdejo or Sauvignon Blanc seem as the one grape on the label, there should be a minimal of 85% of the named grape, many will likely be 100%. Verdejo and Sauvignon Blanc additionally work rather well collectively as a mix, a label stating DO (Denominacion of Origin) Rueda will likely be at the least 50% Verdejo.
Spanish reds
I don’t need to go away the crimson wine drinkers out, so this can be a good probability to inform you about one other Spanish masterclass which was delivered to my door. Fairly than specializing in a area, this focus was on a grape-Garnacha (Grenache) from completely different areas in Spain. The tasting confirmed simply how good and the way various the kinds of Garnacha will be.
Main the enlightening presentation was Norrel Robertson MW. Born and raised in Scotland and a graduate of Aberdeen College, Norrel has labored within the wine trade for round 30 years and in 2003 moved to Spain the place he now produces award successful wines in excessive altitude vineyards in Calatayud, Aragon.
I’ll start with a wine made by Norrel, El Escoces Volante ‘La Muta’ Previous Vine Garnacha 2018, DO Calatayud with its scents of darkish berries, plum and spice. There’s a raise to the acidity with mushy tannins and an depth to the plum and cherry flavours. RRP £10 Cork and Cask, Edinburgh and Juniper Wine Café, Dunfermline.
CVNE Contino Garnacha 2018, DOCa Rioja
Perfumed with layers of bramble, raspberry, clove and spice, this single property wine is full bodied, the tannins are effectively built-in and there are spice notes of liquorice and cinnamon too. £22-£24 from drinkfinder.co.uk or dbyrne-finewines.co.uk
Domaine Lupier, ‘El Terroir’ 2017, DO Navarra
Vibrant crimson berry coulis scents mingle with grape typical white pepper notes with hints of clove and a mineral edge. Tannins are structured, the acidity contemporary and there’s a scrumptious purity to the crimson berry flavours. Priced £22.99 from bbr.com
Bodegas Bernabeleva, Navaherreros Garnacha de Bernabeleva 2018, DO Madrid
From 40-80 12 months outdated vines grown on decomposed granite (which provides a paler color) the aromas are floral with cherry, raspberry and spice. Tannins are mushy, this can be a glassful of crunchy crimson berries and cherries. Obtainable from Primary Road Buying and selling firm, Melrose RRP £21.99.
For extra on this collection…
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