Wine Talk: Looking east in the Levant

I’m a passionate advocate of Israeli wines and strongly imagine Israel is an integral half of what’s known as the “Japanese Mediterranean Wine Area.” Within the historic world, this area was the cradle of wine tradition. In fashionable occasions, Israeli wines must be on the cabinets with bottles from different nations from this identical area, reminiscent of Cyprus, Greece, Lebanon and Turkey.

One of the best wine from probably the most unlikely place is Domaine Bargylus close to Latakia, the port metropolis in western Syria. The Saadé household, proprietor of Chateau Marsyas in Lebanon, based the vineyard in 2003. The soils are clay and limestone and the winery is at an elevation of 900 meters. Displaying seriousness and professionalism, they employed the revered Stephane Derenoncourt from Bordeaux as their winemaking advisor. For the reason that Civil Conflict started in 2011, making wine has develop into fraught, even harmful, with day by day actions extra akin to a James Bond movie than a daily vineyard. Simply to style the grapes, Sandro and Karim Saadé must commandeer a taxi to gather grapes in specifically cooled containers and undergo roadblocks to deliver them to Beirut. There, they’re tasted briefly earlier than a thumbs-up sign is given of when to reap. 

The pink is constructed from Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Merlot. The earlier version of The World Atlas of Wine referred to it because the best pink wine within the Japanese Mediterranean. It’s wealthy, full-bodied and mouth-filling however finishes fairly elegantly with lengthy, lingering flavors. It’s definitely a really high quality wine. I’ve not tasted the white, constructed from Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc.

IN JORDAN, Bulos Zumot began to make wine in 1954. It went up a gear when his son Omar based Zumot Vineyard in 1996. He selected Saint George as a model title, because the Madaba winery in central Jordan was close to the church of the identical title. From the start the wines have been farmed organically. They developed two new websites: above Jerash at 1,000 meters elevation within the northeast and at Sama at an altitude of 630 meters, near the Syrian border. They develop primarily worldwide varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Shiraz, Petit Verdot, Chardonnay and Gewurztraminer; additionally they have Pinot Noir and Marselan. Their winemaker is Bulgarian Iva Boyuklieva, who has been with Zumot for almost 14 years. Individuals who style the wines are at all times pleasantly shocked. The opposite vineyard in Jordan is JR Wines, (Jordan River) owned by the Haddad household, well-known for his or her Haddad Arak. In 2004 they planted a winery on the Mafraq plateau, at 840 meters elevation.

PALESTINIAN WINES will be neglected, as a result of they’re beneath the radar. True wine lovers will discover them fascinating, except prevented from partaking by both the kosher barrier or blind nationalism. We do have Israeli-Arab-owned wineries in Israel and a few fairly good ones at that. Wineries like Ashkar, Jascala, Julia, Latroun and Mony are nicely price visiting, producing good wines. Nevertheless, there are additionally wineries beneath the auspices of the Palestine Authority, the place there are some passionate growers and particular person winemakers producing good-quality wines as nicely. 

Essentially the most well-known Palestinian vineyard is Cremisan Vineyard. Cremisan Monastery was based by Father Antonio Belloni, an Italian Catholic monk, in 1885. The which means of the phrase is Kerem Zan, the winery of Zan. The monastery belongs to the Italian Salesian Order. It’s located on the northern slopes of Mount Gilo, northwest of the Palestinian city Beit Jala, 5 kilometers from Bethlehem and 12 km from Jerusalem. The Monastery made wine to finance Father Belloni’s social actions to assist poor youngsters within the Holy Land and to offer a livelihood.

Essentially the most hanging factor are the artfully terraced vineyards and olive groves within the shadow of the Monastery and vineyard. In 2008, a brand new venture was began to review native grape varieties. New tools, superior know-how, imported experience from Italy, all mixed to rejuvenate the Cremisan Vineyard. Their spacious vineyard now combines the brand new and outdated beneath one roof. The winemaker and agronomist is Fadi Batarseh, who by no means drank wine when he was youthful however determined he wished to review one thing totally different. He went to all the difficulty of studying Italian so he might research in Italy. He wrote his thesis on the indigenous varieties and returned in 2012. One in every of Italy’s most well-known winemakers, Riccardo Cotarella, is the winemaking advisor. 

There are three vineyards. The Bethlehem space, together with the monastery itself, was the supply of grapes for a few years. In 1968, after the Six Day Conflict, additionally they used grapes from Guess Jamal, and so they additionally buy grapes from Dir Raffat and Hebron. They concentrate on their singular indigenous grape varieties: Baladi, Dabouki, Hamdani and Jandali and are the pioneers of those native varieties. Their wines seem beneath the Star of Bethlehem label. Creating explicit curiosity is the Hamdani Jandali white mix, which garnered worldwide recognition.

Taybeh Vineyard was based in 2013 by the Khoury household, with fruit from vineyards in Taybeh, Birzeit and Aboud, not removed from Ramallah. They based a brewery, then a vineyard and at last a resort. The household are pioneers of tourism within the space. The wine comes beneath the title Nadim (after one of many founding brothers), and choices embrace Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah and Sauvignon Blanc; most attention-grabbing is the native indigenous selection Zeini. I as soon as tasted Taybeh’s wines and was not that impressed, however that was early on. My efforts to get to know them higher since haven’t been profitable.

Essentially the most fascinating Palestinian vineyard is Philokalia in Bethlehem. The title says one thing in regards to the owner-winemaker, the cerebral Sari Khoury. Philokalia means “love of the attractive and the nice.” Established in 2015, it’s an artisan vineyard, and the wines are handcrafted, extremely individualistic expressions. The wines are made utilizing black clay jars. The hanging, engaging labels are from work by Nasser Soumi, proficient artist and an authority of Palestinian wine historical past via the ages. The wines are as pure as will be, constructed from native varieties grown in vineyards, from 60 years outdated upwards, within the Bethlehem and Hebron areas. His best-known wine is Grapes of Wrath, which is an amber wine. It’s wild fermented (utilizing pure not cultured yeasts), with the skins (like a pink wine) and the wine is unfiltered. The winery for this wine was flattened with boulders by the IDF to construct an entry highway, however the decided vines grew again; therefore the title. It’s wealthy, broad-flavored, with layers of complexity and is completely distinctive.

The wine grower or “vigneron” out of the Palestinian wineries is Domaine Kassis. The winemaker is Adam Kassis, who studied in Chile. He’s additionally the winemaker of Domaine de Latroun on the Monastery, the place he labored as a boy on the age of 11. The Kassis winery at Birzeit has been within the household for 100 years, as soon as owned by Adam’s grandparents. Then his grandmother used to make the wine for the household’s use, in all probability from Dabouki grapes. The soil of the winery is terra rossa and limestone, the vines are unirrigated and it’s at an altitude of 800 meters above sea degree. Kassis makes a really promising, energetic area mix from Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, and a fresh-style Chardonnay. He additionally makes an excellent Dabouki, with a little bit Jandali, from high-elevation Bethlehem and Hebron vineyards. He’s hardworking, formidable, revolutionary and decided. Positively one to observe.

Sahara Vineyards is a extra upscale model related to the group. The wines are largely bought to vacationers and probably the most recognizable are a pink known as Omar Khayyam and a white Cru des Ptolemees. Possibly barely higher is the Kouroum of The Nile Vineyards and their “Jardin du Nil” label. You wouldn’t exit of your technique to search Egyptian wines, but when there, you could be curious to style them.

For kosher wine experts, there are not any kosher wines made within the Levant outdoors Israel, however three of the East Med nations do produce a kosher classic. Lambouri Vineyard’s Yain Kafrisin from Cyprus, Roussas Vineyard’s Rose from Greece and Kavaklidere Vineyard’s Ancyra from Turkey should not bought in Israel but; nevertheless, they do exist.

With all of the chatter in Israel, you’ll typically be led to assume we’re crucial wine nation on the earth. I name it Israeli soccer syndrome. It’s at all times a actuality examine to go to a world wine exhibition and see Brazil and Uruguay with a bigger stand than Israel. In a world of blind individuals, the one-eyed individual is king. 

Wine is above politics and wine individuals are a type of brotherhood. It’s at all times fascinating to look and hear. The wines of our neighbors are additionally a part of the wealthy winemaking tapestry of the Levant.