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Cucumbers could be bland, however they’re not boring. They’re proof of the irresistible nature of edibles that crunch.
What a shock, at 20, to style my first French cucumber salad. Visiting my soon-to-be grandmother-by-marriage in Paris, I came upon that cucumbers could possibly be adorned with the delicate flavors of cream and contemporary tarragon. I used to be accustomed to Dad’s vinegar-laden cucumber concoction, one thing he known as “slumgullion.” This new dish was delicate. Delectable.
Grand-mere seeded, salted and drained cucumbers earlier than tossing them with dressing, a course of that prevented them from changing into watery as soon as they have been coated with cream. Peeling them first, she minimize the cucumbers in half from finish to finish, after which scooped out the seeds utilizing the bowl of a dainty teaspoon.
Inserting them flat aspect down on a slicing board, she minimize skinny, crescent-shaped slices utilizing a country knife.
She tossed them with sea salt after which positioned the cucumber-filled colander in her tiny sink, after which weighted them down by putting a thick ceramic bowl on high; she allow them to relaxation for about one hour, sufficient time for the tasteless cucumber “water” to dribble down the drain.
Her cucumber dance rid them of undesirable moisture. Tossing them with creme fraiche (a thickened cream with the consistency of bitter cream that has a wealthy, nutty taste), a handful of chopped contemporary tarragon leaves, a drop or two of white wine vinegar, white pepper and salt, she created cucumber heaven. She spooned it on fuchsia-rimmed porcelain plates.
She served it as a luncheon first course, accompanied with a tomato salad, easy wedges of tomatoes tossed with parsley-shallot French dressing. And a fresh-from-the-corner baguette to sop up the juices.
The next recipes make the most of two cucumber varieties, frequent and English (also known as hothouse). Widespread, typically known as “pole cucumbers or plain cucumbers,” are 6- to 8-inches lengthy with thick, darkish inexperienced pores and skin that’s usually coated with wax. Typically, they should be peeled and seeded. English cucumbers are grown in greenhouses and most frequently are bought sealed in plastic wrap. Normally they’re about 12-inches lengthy. Their pores and skin is skinny and infrequently they’re served with the pores and skin intact. No seeding is required.
Riff on Grand-mere’s Cucumber Salad
On this recipe I swap up grand-mere’s recipe by slicing the “cukes” right into a medium-sized cube earlier than they’re dressed, after which I serve the dressed “cukes” as a creamy combine atop ripe tomatoes slices.
Yield: 6 to eight servings
INGREDIENTS
2 “frequent” cucumbers, peeled
1 teaspoon coarse salt, similar to kosher
2/3 cup crème fraiche, extra if wanted
1 teaspoon white wine vinegar
2 teaspoons chopped contemporary tarragon leaves
Freshly floor pepper, white pepper most well-liked however not necessary
2 to three massive ripe tomatoes, heirlooms most well-liked
Garnish: chopped contemporary chives
PROCEDURE
1. Minimize cucumbers in half lengthwise. To take away seeds, use the bowl of a spoon to scoop out seeds, operating it from one finish to the opposite. Discard seeds. Put cucumbers on work floor, flat aspect down and minimize into 1/2-inch cube. Place in colander within the sink and toss with 1 teaspoon coarse salt. Go away 1 hour. Give colander a shake to take away extra water. Place diced cucumber on clear kitchen towel and rub with towel to take away some salt and cucumber “water.”
2. Place cucumber in bowl; add crème fraiche, vinegar, tarragon, and pepper. Toss. The cucumber cubes needs to be properly coated with crème fraiche; add extra crème fraiche if mandatory. Style and modify as wanted.
3. Minimize tomatoes into thick slices and place in single layer on platter or on particular person salad plates. High tomatoes with cucumber salad. Garnish with chopped contemporary chives. Serve.
Chilled Mint-Cucumber-Honeydew Soup
Yield: 6 servings
INGREDIENTS
1 peeled and sliced hothouse cucumber or 2 peeled, seeded and sliced frequent cucumbers
2 cups honeydew melon chunks
8 ounces plain nonfat or whole-milk yogurt
1/4 cup contemporary mint leaves
2 tablespoons contemporary lime juice
Salt and pepper to style, white pepper most well-liked however not necessary
PROCEDURE
1. Place all substances in a bowl and stir. Whirl in batches in a blender till easy and completely pureed after which stir all the pieces collectively (if in case you have a big high-speed blender, you are able to do all substances directly).
2. Chill. Style; modify seasoning as wanted.
Smashed Cucumber Salad, Korean Fashion Dressing
Smashing cucumbers earlier than they’re tossed with dressing has change into a well-liked culinary pattern over the previous few years. In response to the smashing principle, cracking the pores and skin and flesh a bit permits the cucumbers to absorb dressing extra generously. Celeb chef Jose Andres, in his most up-to-date cookbook, “Greens Unleashed” (An Anthony Bourdain E-book ECCO — Harper Collins, $39.99), reveals a number of variations on the smashed cucumbers theme. Right here is his model utilizing Korean-style substances to make the dressing.
Yield: 4 to six servings
INGREDIENTS
Smashed Cucumbers:
2 English (hothouse) seedless cucumbers
2 teaspoons coarse salt, similar to kosher
Massive zipper-style plastic bag
Korean Dressing:
1 massive garlic clove, peeled
1 teaspoon minced contemporary ginger
1 1/2 teaspoons gochujang, see prepare dinner’s notes
1 tablespoon seasoned rice wine vinegar
1 teaspoon cider vinegar
1 tablespoon canola oil or vegetable oil
1 teaspoon Asian-style toasted sesame oil
1 teaspoon toasted sesame seeds, see prepare dinner’s notes
Cook dinner’s notes: Gochujang is a Korean chili paste, a savory, candy, and spicy fermented condiment. It’s bought in Asian markets, supermarkets with massive Asian specialty sections or on-line. Sriracha chili sauce or a Thai chili paste could be substituted, however they provide spicy warmth with out delicate sweetness. Andres requires 1 tablespoon of gochujang; I halved the quantity to go well with my style for spicy warmth; the selection is yours. To toast sesame seeds, place a bowl subsequent to range. Place sesame seeds in small skillet on medium-high warmth. Shake deal with of skillet to redistribute seeds as they toast to gentle brown; watch fastidiously as a result of they’ll burn simply. Switch to bowl to chill. I exploit about 1 tablespoon on this recipe; it’s loads, however I like sesame seeds.
PROCEDURE
1. One after the other, place cucumbers in a sturdy plastic bag and smash evenly with a rolling pin or heavy skillet to crack the pores and skin and flesh a bit — it will make extra nooks and crannies for the dressing. Quarter cucumbers lengthwise, then minimize crosswise into 1-inch items; place in bowl. Sprinkle cucumbers with salt and refrigerate whilst you make the dressing.
2. Put together dressing: Finely chop the garlic and place in medium bowl. Add ginger, gochujang, vinegars, oil, sesame oil and toasted sesame seeds. Permit dressing to sit down for five to 10 minutes
3. Drain cucumbers and pat dry with clear kitchen towel. Stir dressing and add to cucumbers. Toss. Serve.
Supply: tailored from “Greens Unleashed” by Jose Andres and Matt Goulding (An Anthony Bourdain E-book ECCO – Harper Collins, $39.99)
Have a cooking query? Contact Cathy Thomas at cathythomascooks@gmail.com
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