Magic Mountain

September 1, 2021

A enjoyable trip by means of a fancy AVA

If a brand new AVA launches throughout a pandemic, and nobody is there to style, did it actually occur? Such was the destiny of the Laurelwood District, a nested AVA of Chehalem Mountains, awarded AVA (American Viticultural Space) standing in June 2020. Attributable to COVID-19 rules, alternatives to pour had been restricted.

On a mission to coach myself and palate on this new appellation, I attended Magic within the Mountains, a tasting celebration introduced by the Chehalem Mountains Winegrowers in partnership with The Allison Inn & Spa. The primary main tasting expertise for the world since security restrictions loosened, the June occasion hosted 24 wineries (see finish of story) desperate to showcase the standard and variety of the higher Chehalem Mountains.

Chehalem Mountains is thought for its range of soil, vary of elevation — from 200 to 1,000 toes — and ranging topography. From Parrett Mountain on the southern edge, working northwest throughout Bald Peak and Ribbon Ridge, this space was shaped by uplifted sedimentary seabeds, lava flows and wind-blown silt to create the best elevations and most various soils within the area. So, it’s no shock a area with such variation would produce a nested AVA in Laurelwood District.

Laurelwood’s most outstanding defining characteristic stays its namesake soil.  Loess (windblown freshwater silt) collected over the previous 200,000 years makes up the highest layer at depths of as much as 4 toes, relying on elevation. Dig slightly deeper — pun meant — and there’s extra occurring. Along with the silt are pisolites, little concentrated bits of iron manganese that some consider add a rose petal high quality to Pinot Noir. All of this sits above a 15-million-year-old base of basalt rock and clay.

With this layered soil, the age of the vines makes a distinction in taste profiles.  As vines mature, they root deeper into the volcanic soils, exposing them to extra out there moisture and totally different mineral sources. The chance for dry farming of older vines, later ripening and better acidity are the outcomes. Based on the Oregon Wine Board, youthful Laurelwood District vines (these rooted into the loess) produce Pinot Noir with extra floral and purple fruit notes, whereas older vines (these deeper into the basalt clay) end in a extra brooding Pinot Noir with darker fruits.

How does this translate, glass to glass, in a showcase tasting? Lots of the predicted flavors had been current, together with a typical word of white pepper, however there was fairly a little bit of range. Contemplating the affect of the specifics of the location, the hand of the vintner, the lineage of the vine and roots, something much less wouldn’t be so magical. Right here is only a small style.

One of many predicted markers of Laurelwood District Pinot Noir is a “rustic” tannin that to me is like tremendous brick mud. Hamacher Wines 2017 Pinot Noir from Paloma Vineyards delivered that tannic construction plus a white pepper word that founder/winemaker Eric Hamacher attributes to the 800-foot elevation.

Freja Cellars takes the variety up a notch with their 2014 Property Pinot Noir exhibiting cedar, white pepper and sandalwood from the affect of each Oregon and Hungarian oak.

Alloro Vineyards 2018 Property Pinot Noir introduced a mix of darkish and purple fruits with refined however current earthier notes. Chehalem’s 2019 Corral Creek Winery Pinot Noir was strawberry, cherry, baking spice and softer, silkier tannins. Potter’s Winery 2017 Barrel Choose Pinot Noir tasted recent with ripe purple cherries, herbs and rocky minerality. Ruby Winery & Vineyard 2018 Ruby Outdated-Vine Property Pinot Noir was ripe and tart with cherry and pomegranate, together with pepper and natural notes. 

Whereas Pinot Noir is thought to be expressive of place, there have been a spread of different grapes and types, together with Blakeslee Vineyards’ freshly acidic Burgundian-style Chardonnay from its 2018 Property bottling; Freja Cellars Albariño from vines planted at 850 toes; and each a glowing rosé and Grüner Veltliner from Raptor Ridge Vineyard.

A cease on the Ponzi Vineyards’ desk was a reminder that whereas the AVA recognition is new and well-deserved, some, like Luisa Ponzi, have been making wines from this space their entire lives.  The AVA designation is just a possibility for focus.

Ponzi reached into her bag and pulled out the tiniest, geekiest, most intelligent little bottle exhibiting pisolites, loess and basalt — all of the layers of the Laurelwood soils. Too faculty for cool, I’m all the time intrigued by soil shows in tasting rooms. Upon opening the vial, I seen Laurelwood had a particular perfume.

She defined the Laurelwood District AVA is exclusive not simply from the soils, but additionally by being farther north within the Valley, the affect of the Columbia Gorge winds, and fewer rainfall from the rain shadow created by the Chehalem Mountain vary. Ponzi finds Laurelwood Pinot Noirs typically present gentle florals of dried rose petal or lavender, heat spices of nutmeg and cardamom, white pepper, anise and, mostly, a mid-palate saltiness. She proceeded to pour precisely that profile, full with the signature dusty tannins, from her bottle of 2017 Ponzi Vineyards Laurelwood Pinot Noir.

There’s a lot to discover within the Chehalem Mountain AVA. Wineries from the tasting with vineyards positioned within the new Laurelwood District are marked with an asterisk within the sidebar. Please word that different AVAs supply fruit from the Laurelwood District, and plenty of wines from the Laurelwood District AVA could not checklist it on their label but. As security precautions permit, make it a degree to style, ask questions, kind your individual opinions, and uncover what makes the Chehalem Mountains magic.

Featured wineries

Adelsheim, *Anne Amie Vineyards, Bells Up Vineyard, *Blakeslee Winery, *Chehalem, Colene Clemens, *Dion Winery,  Flâneur Wines, *Freja Cellars, *Hamacher Wines, *Hawks View Vineyard, Hazelfern, Lachini Vineyards, Le Cadeau,  Longplay Wine, *Ponzi Vineyards, *Potters Winery, Rain Dance Vineyards, *Raptor Ridge Vineyard, *REX HILL, ROCO Vineyard, *Ruby Winery & Vineyard, Sidereus Winery & Vineyard, and Vidon Winery.