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In case you are on a fall-color bike trip across the valley the subsequent couple of weeks and also you get handed by a well-recognized face on the roads, it could be Aspen’s legendary grasp sommelier Jay Fletcher. He has been out getting in form for his subsequent problem: working the beverage program at Matsuhisa Aspen, the place his first evening will likely be Oct. 1.
“I received a 45-mile trip in yesterday,” he stated about his coaching to get again on the ground to pour wines, one thing he has not executed on a nightly foundation for over 20 years when he final was a full-time sommelier on the late lamented Syzygy in Aspen. “You realize I’ve pulled shifts at Cache Cache with Alex (Harvier, the sommelier) throughout the holidays and poured wines at Artwork Crush and company occasions from time to time. However being on the ground each evening is totally different. You pour a whole bunch of glasses, you stroll about 5 miles an evening after which there are the containers and instances of wine it’s worthwhile to transfer.”
“It’s a younger man’s sport. You don’t see many out-of-shape somms,” he added with a chuckle.
This pairing of venerable Aspen stalwarts makes for among the finest native hospitality tales of the season. Fletcher, maybe the important thing participant in making Aspen the numerous wine city it’s, brings his appreciable skills to one among Aspen’s most iconic eating places and comes full circle to the place through which he made his status.
“The chance to attempt to enhance an already wonderful program was simply too good to move up,” Fletcher stated in regards to the transfer.
For near twenty years, Fletcher has been the chief director of fantastic wine for Southern Glazer Wine and Spirits, one of the distinctive jobs on the earth of wine: “I oversaw the fantastic wine portfolio, was the lead educator for the corporate and labored carefully with key accounts promoting the best wines on the earth. It was an unbelievable expertise, however I used to be simply continuously busy. Over the past 12 months with this COVID factor I started to begin fascinated about how I spent my time and what I wished to do. Then this got here up and it appeared like an ideal time to return to working like an actual somm slightly than a paper somm.”
THE QUEST
Whereas he’s beginning with a confirmed program, Fletcher has a number of plans: “I’ll simply be making an attempt to develop on the present record’s excellence and focus just a little bit on constructing a group of the classics.”
Matsuhisa has created a world-class beverage program catering to a clientele that expects solely the most effective.
“The purple and white Burgundy choices, the cocktail program and the sake program are as full as any on the earth. However I need to be sure we’ve a cellar with the most effective wines, the most effective vintages from France, Italy and Spain. We might get a number of purple Bordeaux wines that we don’t have now, as a result of folks prefer to drink nice purple wine, even with Asian meals,” stated Fletcher, who has lengthy been thought of an authority on the wines of Bordeaux. He additionally needs to improve the wines-by-the-glass record, present some extra inexpensive wine choices for diners, put collectively pairing dinners and maybe even supply a wine class.
Whereas pairing wines with each the subtlety of sushi and the extra highly effective flavors of different Asian-inspired dishes generally is a problem, Fletcher has labored this magic earlier than. “A number of years in the past I labored with chef Nobu Matsuhisa on a 13-course tasting dinner. Chef Nobu’s delicacies may be very sophisticated, however we paired beer, sake and wine with the programs and didn’t use something from the identical grape or the identical nation twice.”
The Matsuhisa crew, together with working companions Michael and Steve Goldberg and director of operations Todd Clark, are wanting ahead to welcoming Fletcher.
“I’ve identified Jay for 25 years,” Clark stated. “He has been a mentor, a good friend and a ski buddy, and to have him on board is form of a dream that each one simply got here collectively.”
Clark met with Jay in his yard on Juan St. and requested if he could be . “I requested him, ‘Hey do you assume this might work?’ He’s tremendous obsessed with this and we’re actually excited to have among the finest sommeliers on the earth.”
Fletcher concurs, noting, “Household is an enormous deal to possession. Todd is one among my greatest mates and I’ll have the ability to work with Dave Musser (Matsuhisa sommelier), who I knew from our time at Southern.”
JAY’S JOURNEY
Fletcher first got here to Aspen 43 winters in the past with a pair of skis and a pool cue. “The primary two months right here I lived within the Tough Campground,” he recalled in a 2019 interview. “I might play pool fairly nicely, and I made some cash playing to help myself.”
He quickly took the usual route of working in native institutions to pay the payments and found wine. “I feel the primary wine that actually hit me was a Joseph Drouhin Puligny-Montrachet. I used to be working as a busboy in Charlemagne (an previous Essential Road French restaurant) and in some way received to style the wine. I started studying books and learning wine a bit.”
Nevertheless it was stint at Krabloonik on Snowmass the place he actually started to discover the pleasure of the grape. “We took a listing of 15 wines and constructed it to 300 alternatives. Each evening we’d open one thing nice and find out about it.” An opportunity studying of an article in 1993 a few fledgling group known as the Court docket of Grasp Sommeliers and an introductory wine course in Vail actually modified his life.
“I used to be instantly hooked and started learning locations and wines and repair to turn out to be a grasp,” he stated. Nevertheless it was a more durable highway than he thought. “I took the Masters for the primary time in the summertime of 1994 and I received destroyed,” he stated with a voice nonetheless tinged with ache. “I simply wasn’t prepared. They instructed me I ought to stop. It beat me up fairly dangerous.” However as a substitute of quitting, he persevered, and on Nov. 6, 1996, he acquired his Masters pin on the Dorchester Resort in London. In 2008 he would turn out to be the chairman of the American Chapter of the Court docket of Grasp Sommeliers.
Again in Aspen, he labored the ground as sommelier on the aforementioned Syzygy whereas spreading the gospel of fantastic wine to each his clients and a rising group of younger somms who had drunk the Kool-Assist, because it had been, of the Court docket of Grasp Sommeliers. The Wizard of Juan Road, as he got here be identified, mentored a whole era of Aspen sommeliers, together with Bobby Stuckey, Jonathan Pullis, Sabato Sagaria, Dustin Wilson and others by the Masters certification course of.
Simply this week he was conducting particular person “teaching periods” with 5 native somms who had been off to St. Louis to sit down for the ultimate examination to turn out to be grasp sommeliers. “I actually love the mentorship and can proceed to assist once I can.”
Twenty years in the past, when Fletcher left the ground to take the company job, he did in order a father with duties. “I had two daughters who had been the whole lot to me. I used to work 25 straight days by the Christmas holidays. It was simply an excessive amount of.”
However now each are grown, and Fletcher is itching for a 3rd act.
“The very best days of my life have been pouring wine in eating places. This can be a likelihood to have days free to ski and spend time with my spouse and go to work at evening and do what I do greatest,” he concluded. “Change is nice for the human spirit.”
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