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By Barbara M. Houle
When James (Jim) Nicas referred to as me final week to say the deal to promote the Fort Restaurant was sealed the information was bittersweet.
In his 70s, Jim stated it was time to maneuver on, explaining that he and spouse Denise deliberate to spend extra time in retirement with their grandchildren and to journey. Whereas he didn’t reveal the title(s) of the individuals who purchased the Leicester property, he emphasised they have been “really, really an exquisite household.”
The Fort restaurant had been within the Nicas household for greater than 70 years. Nicas and his sister, Evangeline, took over possession and the operation of the restaurant after their dad and mom, Stanley J. Nicas and Helen Nicas, handed. The Nicas’ different son, John S. Nicas, was the Fort’s government chef previous to his demise.
I interacted with the relations by means of the years, having fun with Sunday Jazz at Sundown on the patio and sharing Escoffier dinners, wine tastings, meals judging competitions and different culinary occasions. Often, perhaps just a little gossip on a name with Stanley or after a meals competitors. A famend chef and restaurateur, the person knew nearly everybody within the enterprise, internet hosting celebrated cooks from america and Europe all through his lifetime. He was a founding member of the Distinguished Visiting Chef Program at Johnson & Wales College in Windfall, and chaired this system till his demise. He launched an apprenticeship program on the Fort within the early 50s, working with the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, N.Y., and Johnson & Wales College in Windfall for greater than 40 years. His awards and accolades are limitless.
On deadline, I couldn’t attain out to all of the cooks who started their unbelievable culinary careers on the Fort, I used to be in a position to contact base with a number of who shared reminiscences of the household and the restaurant.
Govt chef/proprietor Invoice Brady of Brady’s in Leominster obtained engaged to his spouse, Kim, in 1993 within the Camelot Room of the Fort. “The Nicas’ household and pastry chef have been in on the shock proposal, stated Brady. “I advised Kim I had ordered a particular dessert. The ring was hidden underneath a spun sugar, bell-like protecting made by the pastry chef. What an evening. Linen tablecloth, roses, the works!”
The couple returned to the Fort in Might for his or her twenty eighth anniversary a couple of weeks earlier than the Fort completely closed.
Brady first met Stanley Nicas within the late 80s when he returned to the world from New York and inquired about membership within the Massachusetts Culinary Affiliation. “Stanley was the connection for nearly something culinary,” stated Brady, who within the 90s was president of the MCA.
“Stanley was a cooks’ mentor for many years,” stated Brady. “He had a robust work ethic and shared his information. He was each a buddy and instructor. I’ll all the time bear in mind working with him in planning a reception for Barbara Bush after she spoke at a fundraiser at Mechanics Corridor in 1992. And, in fact, culinary icon Julia Baby’s dinner go to to the Fort.”
In November, Brady and Keith Boston, Vice President of Meals Service and Culinary Operations for Cumberland Farms Inc, will host the annual dinner of the Joseph Donon Chapter of Les Amis d’Escoffier Society, based by Stanley Nicas. Jim Nicas will induct new members. Govt chef Justin Smith of Brady’s will oversee the meal.
Robert (Rob) Fecteau of Worcester’s BirchTree Bread Co. labored on the Fort as a dishwasher and busboy whereas in highschool and later did an apprenticeship underneath Stanley Nicas. Because the Fort’s sous chef, Fecteau received the Judges’ Alternative and Individuals’s Alternative Awards in a Worcester’s Finest Chef Competitors.
“Stanley was powerful, however honest,” stated Fecteau about working for Nicas. “He had a normal and anticipated the remainder of us to observe. I suppose some cooks would possibly say he might put you thru the ringer just a little, however the expertise you bought was invaluable. He labored beside you. As an proprietor, he wasn’t within the enterprise simply to generate income.”
Fecteau stated a memorable time for him was when he labored alongside Nicas on a Mom’s Day. “Heads down, 5 hours, we killed it and by no means skipped a beat. The man’s like in his 80s, coated in sweat and cooking for 150 folks. On the finish, Stanley turns to me, seems me within the eyes and says, ‘Yeah, we simply kicked some ass.’”
Fecteau stated he all the time felt like a part of the Nicas household when he labored on the restaurant. “On the finish of a shift on some nights we’d all sit on the bar and Jim would open a bottle of wine and educate us concerning the wine we have been consuming. It wasn’t about slugging again a drink. We realized about wine, costly wine. “it was quite a lot of enjoyable. Time spent on the Fort positively performed an vital function in my profession path.”
Fecteau later labored the restaurant and resort scene in Boston and Central Massachusetts. In 2014, he and his spouse, Avra Hoffman, opened BirchTree Bread on Inexperienced Road, thought of the most effective bakeries and cafes within the metropolis.
Josh Suprenant, Hospitality Director at Indian Ranch and Samuel Slater’s Restaurant in Webster, stated he was form of a wild youngster in his 20s when he obtained employed on the Fort in 2001. “I used to be on the proper place on the proper time,” he stated. “On a whim, I walked by means of the door to inquire a couple of job. Helen was on the entrance desk and Stanley got here across the nook, seemed me up and down, requested me about my earring, advised me to eliminate it, go dwelling, clear up and are available again to satisfy his son. The primary query Jim requested once I met him was if I had black pants, a white shirt and a jacket. No to the jacket. Jim then disappears and returns with one among his black tux jackets. I’ve saved all of it these years.”
Suprenant, who was a waiter on the Fort “on and off” for about 20 years, stated his finest second on the restaurant was the evening in 2003 when Jim Nicas advised him he had a telephone name. “The message was that my son Aiden had been born,” stated Suprenant. “I’ll always remember it. The child got here sooner than anticipated, and it hit me like a ton of bricks. I needed to sit down, however I completed desk service earlier than I left.
“After I give it some thought, the Fort wasn’t only a office, moderately it turned a part of our lives,” stated Suprenant. “We have been household, and the Nicases taught you the best solution to do issues, working proper together with you within the trenches. Unquestionably, I’ll always remember their robust work ethic.”
Suprenant stated Joyce Pijus, who labored on the Fort for greater than 35 years, taught him and different servers nice eating etiquette. “We have been a extremely educated employees,” he stated.
“I’m positive lots of people tear up when they consider the Fort and the reminiscences they’ve shared there,” added Suprenant. “Weddings, anniversaries, particular events and weekend dinners. There have been so many common company.
“I’m pleased for Jim and Evangeline as they transfer on. I’m additionally reminded of what number of cooks began on the market. Rob Fecteau and government chef Ryan Marcoux at Grill 23 & Bar in Boston amongst them.”
Add government chef Jason Rollman of Anya restaurant in Thompson, Conn., to the checklist. He began his profession on the Fort in 2016, working for 2 years as sous chef. “After inquiring a number of occasions for a possible chef opening, Chef (Jim) Nicas took me underneath his wings and gave me the chance to work there,” stated Rollman.
He stated his fondest moments embrace working aspect by aspect with Nicas, studying French methods, nice eating, wine pairing and tastings, as nicely has having been inducted by him into the Escoffier Society. “Nicas is a good chef and sommelier,” he stated.
Rollman is also one other chef “honored to have labored for the Nicas household.” His expertise on the Fort has benefited and helped his skilled profession as a chef of nice eating and French methods, he stated. Rollman turned government chef at Anya in 2020.
The Nicas household participated and donated to many native fundraisers. As members of the Greek St. Spyridon’s Greek Orthodox Cathedral, they helped put together and serve meals on the annual pageant.
Gus Giannakis, proprietor of the Pickle Barrel Restaurant in Worcester, stated he labored beside the Nicas household at many cathedral occasions. “They’re a fantastic household,” he stated, including that he serves one among Stanley Nicas’ recipes at his restaurant. “Our selfmade corned beef hash is a Stanley authentic,” stated Giannakis.
So many reminiscences, so many tales. As a member of the Escoffier Society, I stay up for the chapter dinner in November and sharing extra.
In a Meet the Chef column revealed within the Sunday Telegram in 2017, Jim Nicas stated, “The Fort has been the benchmark for nice eating and global-classical cuisines of the world for some 68 years. The classics are the place all of us began, it’s our base of operation.” He conceded, nonetheless, “that one should all the time take a look at the long run and embrace the current.”
With Greek Pageant postponed, St. Spyridon set for Gyro Honest
On October 2 and three, St. Spyridon Greek Orthodox Cathedral, 102 Russell St., Worcester will maintain its first Gyro Honest, a cultural and meals occasion changing the cathedral’s annual Greek Pageant, rescheduled for 2022 because of the pandemic.
The Gyro Honest is a bit smaller than the annual pageant we’re all used to however relating to conventional Greek meals and stay music, fair-goers received’t be upset.
The occasion with free admission is scheduled from midday to 11 p.m. Oct. 2; midday to eight p.m. Oct. 3. Gus Giannakis, George Gourousis, Father Christopher Stamas, presiding priest at St. Spyridon, and devoted volunteers helped manage the fundraiser. Giannakis credit “George (Gourousis) because the “man in cost.”
Meals shall be ready and served in a big out of doors tent, in response to Giannakis, who stated the gyros shall be made to order. The Greek gyro recipe will mix lamb and beef with tzatziki sauce and slices of tomato and onion wrapped in conventional pita. Different elements could be added, upon request. The last word aspect dish is Greek fries sprinkled with sea salt and seasoned with dried oregano. Greek pastries additionally shall be bought, along with fried dough, hamburgers and scorching canine, and so on.
Two bars shall be arrange within the meals tent, the place beer and wine shall be out there. Giannakis stated there shall be seating contained in the cathedral and stay music in an outside tent each days of the honest. Father Stamas is scheduled to steer each day cathedral excursions. Test for time postings.
Regardless of the pandemic, St. Spyridon continues to supply philanthropic packages in assist of the cathedral and the Worcester neighborhood. The Gyro Honest not solely is a terrific fundraising thought, it’s additionally a family-friendly occasion.
Take pleasure in!
If in case you have a tidbit for the column, name (508) 868-5282. Ship electronic mail to bhoulefood@gmail.com.
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