The Inside Story Of Winemaking At Rocca Di Montegrossi

I recently met with Marco Ricasoli Firidolfi, proprietor of the Rocca di Montegrossi estate in Gaiole in Chianti in the southern reaches of Chianti Classico. While each estate in Chianti Classico is different, this one is highly distinctive, thanks to Ricasoli Firidolfi’s determination to make wines not to receive the highest ratings, but rather to best reflect the local terroir.

Given that, Ricasoli Firidolfi produces a line of wines that is somewhat unusual for this territory. Of course, he releases a Chianti Classico annata as well as a Gran Selezione, but in addition, he crafts distinctive Super Tuscan that contains Pugnitello, a rare Tuscan varietal, and perhaps his crowning achievement, a stellar Vin Santo. Let’s briefly examine these wines.

His rosato, made entirely from Sangiovese, is among the finest I’ve tasted in some time, and Ricasoli Firidolfi notes that despite its humble image in the wine industry, rosato is actually not an easy wine to make. “To try and produce an interesting rosato,” he remarks, “there is more work behind this than a red wine in the first two to three months.” After pressing the grapes, he gives them skin contact for 40-50 minutes to achieve its attractive bright pink color.

Then given the low fermentation temperatures, he has to add CO2 to each tank every day to avoid oxidation. He also keeps the wine on its lees for three months to add structure and flavors, and to increase the aromatics and complexity. “It’s a wine you can ruin very easily,” he comments. “It’s weak, it doesn’t have structure. So if you want to produce an interesting rosato, you need to pay attention to different steps.”

The current release of this wine is from the 2021 vintage, and it’s a delightful offering with aromas of orange peel, strawberry and a hint of orange crocus. Medium-bodied with good acidity, it is dry, clean and very well balanced. Enjoy this over the next 2-3 years with poultry and lighter white meats or soups. (91 Points)

For his Chianti Classico annata (the current release is from the outstanding 2021 vintage), Ricasoli Firidolfi blends in small percentages of local varietals such as Colorino and Canaiolo; there are no international varietals such as Merlot or Cabernet Sauvignon, which he leaves for his IGT Toscana wines). While he is phasing out Colorino, as he believes it adds little to the wine, he will continue to blend in Canaiolo in his annata; “It’s a little romantic grape variety. It has a thick skin, nice color, soft, low, round acidity. It’s very important for the entry level Chianti Classico to rebalance the acidity.” The 2021 Rocca di Montegrossi Chianti Classico, with notable depth of fruit, tart acidity and lovely harmony, is very impressive and should drink well for six to ten years (92).

For his Gran Selezione Vigneto San Marcellino, the current vintage is 2018. Ricasoli Firidolfi explains that he has to age the wine in the cellar for a longer period of time than other Chianti Classico producers due to differences in terroir as well as winemaking style. Noting that there are some examples of Gran Selezione from the 2020 vintage currently on the market, as well as some from 2019, he remarks, “My 2020 would be undrinkable now due to the structure, the acidity, the intensity.”

As for this 2018 and how it is tasting out now, he says, “now after almost three years in the bottle, it’s still young. The wine is starting to really show its pureness and quality.” 2018 has unjustly been overlooked in Tuscany, as the wines are lighter on the palate than some recent vintages (2015, 2016, 2019), but what that vintage lacked in power, it more than makes up for it with its beautiful structure and finely tuned acidity. Wines from this vintage are more typical of what local producers consider classic. The wine has outstanding typicity and complexity, and will drink well for 12-15 years. (94)

Ricasoli Firidolfi uses Pugnitello, a rarely seen Tuscan varietal in his Gran Selezione (10% to go along with 90% Sangiovese) as well as in his IGT wine labeled Ridolfo, which is a 50/50 blend of Pugnitello and Cabernet Sauvignon. “I am using Pugnitello at the suggestion of my winemaker,” he remarks. Meaning “little fist” in Italian – the shape of a cluster of Pugnitello grapes resembles a small fist – the varietal is notorious for its small quantity produced in the vineyard, but the proprietor loves it. “It’s super interesting. It’s producing so little, but the quality is really amazing.” The 2017 Ridolfo, aged three years in mid-size oak barrels, has very good acidity, medium-full tannins, and big extraction of black fruit; this will be at its best over the next seven to ten years. (93)

Another excellent red here is Geremia (current release 2018), an IGT red made from 82% Merlot and 18% Cabernet Sauvignon. Ricasoli Firidolfi uses international grapes in this wine, but only with other international varietals; he does not blend these grapes with local indigenous varietals. While quality with wines made from international varietals in the Chianti Classico zone is still uneven among some producers, Geremia is a gorgeous wine with outstanding harmony and persistence, along with great complexity and subtle spice. This will drink well for 10-15 years. (93)

Finally, Ricasoli Firidolfi produces what many consider to be the archetypical example of Vin Santo del Chianti Classico. Vin Santo is Tuscany’s most famous dessert wine – or vino da meditazione, if you will – produced from white grapes such as Malvasia and Trebbiano, or sometimes with a small percentage of Sangiovese included in the blend. The Rocca di Montegrossi version is 100% Malvasia, and is simply stunning, with aromas of caramelized pear, honey and toffee, along with a subtle note of cinnamon. The palate is layered and the wine is lush, with the sweetness of the fruit lasting for a long time in the finish. Yet the wine finishes very clean, despite 40% residual sugar! This has been my favorite Vin Santo del Chianti Classico for many years, and the current 2013 (ten years is when a great Vin Santo starts to display its best qualities), is among the best of the last ten years (along with the 2010 and 2011); given the history of this wine, the 2013 should drink well for at least 15-25 years! (97)