[ad_1]
Good high quality wine is the results of many alternative issues, such because the pure rising circumstances within the vineyards and all of the winemaker’s selections. That is evident after I discuss to Daniel Cuesta in Priorat, a wine area in Catalonia in northern Spain. Daniel is the brand new winemaker since 2019 at Mas Igneus, a well known natural wine property of 25 hectares within the coronary heart of the area. The property modified house owners in 2020.
Daniel studied winemaking in France and likewise labored there for a number of years earlier than going again to Spain. He admits to being influenced by France in his winemaking. However he believes that lots of the character of the Mas Igneus wines comes from the soil. “That is the magic of Priorat”, he says when he talks in regards to the area’s poor schist soil, domestically known as llicorella.
Hilly winery panorama in Priorat (Priorato) close to Gratallops, Catalonia, Spain, copyright BKWine … [+]
I’ve tasted some new and previous vintages of Mas Igneus and talked to Daniel about his philosophy and the modifications which are underway at Mas Igneus.
Priorat is legendary for its highly effective wines with aromas of heat and ripe fruit. I ask Daniel how it’s doable to retain degree of acidity within the wines.
“After doing two harvests right here, I can say that the soil offers this acidity”, he says. “It’s a schist soil, shallow, well-drained and really poor in natural matter. The vines endure an incredible deal, nevertheless it permits us to maintain a really distinct acidity, which naturally balances the excessive [alcoholic] levels particular to the area.”
The black schist (slate) llicorella soil in Priorato, copyright BKWine Pictures
That the vines must battle to acquire water and vitamins will have an effect on the yields. They’re extraordinarily low. Daniel says that it’s not doable to get increased yields from this terroir.
“This once more will depend on Priorat’s soil and weather conditions. Priorat is just not at very excessive altitude, however it’s a very hilly area. Priorat is located on prime of an enormous slab of slate; solely the floor half, uncovered to extreme climate and human labour, is disintegrated, in order that younger vines can take root. It is just by in search of cracks within the bedrock that the roots can develop.”
It solely rains 400-600 mm per yr, and when it does, it is vitally heavy rain that shortly washes away and can’t penetrate the decrease layers of the soil. “For all these causes,” Daniel says, “we’ve such low yields, about 15 hectoliters per hectare on common. The vines give us small berries, however wealthy and fragrant.”
The Mas Igneus vineyard in Priorat close to Gratallops, Catalonia, Spain, copyright BKWine Pictures
The crimson wines
Fusió 2018, Mas Igneus, Priorat
In Priorat, Spanish grape varieties are grown alongside Bordeaux grapes. Fusió 2018 is round 30% every of grenache and carignan, 18% merlot, 15% cabernet sauvignon and 4% of syrah. There are lots of fruit, darkish berries, spices, a contact of chocolate. It’s fairly highly effective, however all the things is in steadiness. The wine has focus, freshness mixed with a easy end. The oak stays within the background.
M de Mas Igneus 2019, Priorat
A really attention-grabbing in addition to scrumptious wine. The grapes are 40% cabernet franc, 28% grenache, 25 % merlot, 7% carignan. It has the hallmark “heat local weather fruit” of Priorat. It’s a very beneficiant and ripe fruit, however on the identical time, there’s construction and natural notes. I assume that the cabernet franc performs an essential half right here?
“It’s a little bit of all the things”, Daniel replies. “Our cabernet is planted within the increased areas of our plots to attempt to get its vegetative cycle as shut as doable to those locations of origin, to acquire a ripe however fragrant and recent grape. Additionally, how our vineyards are distributed between the villages of Gratallops and Poboleda, the primary being a lot hotter and drier than the second, we receive a panoply of wines with very various profiles. For that reason, our technical itinerary should adapt to every one.”
M de Mas Igneus 2019 was launched in April 2021.
Homes within the city of Gratallops in Priorat, copyright BKWine Pictures
The white wines
V de Mas Igneus 2020, Priorat
It is a magnificent wine, completely different, with intense floral aromas, pears, raspberries, very recent. The grape varieties are shocking: 38% grenache (crimson selection), 25% merlot (crimson), 23% pedro ximenez, 10% viognier and 4% grenache blanc. The apparent query to Daniel is, why make white wine with a majority of crimson grapes?
“Being an incredible lover of white wines and blends, I resisted the thought of constructing solely a monovarietal white. I like La Capelleta rather a lot (see beneath), in fact, however I needed to craft a white for enjoyable, to experiment, and to have the ability to present a extra fashionable white. As I didn’t have sufficient white grapes, I used the reds!”
Seeing pedro ximenes right here in northern Spain can be uncommon. PX, as it is usually known as, is likely one of the grapes used within the very south of Spain for sherry. “Priorat is the one appellation in Catalonia that enables it, nevertheless it represents a tiny proportion within the Priorat vineyards. It was a really first for me. It was vinified in 450 litres barrels, bringing us the delicacy and density we’re in search of.”
V de Mas Igneus 2020 was launched in April 2021.
Vineyards of Mas Igneus close to Gratallops in Priorat, copyright BKWine Pictures
La Capelleta 2019, Mas Igneus, Priorat
La Capelleta is great, made out of 100% grenache blanc. It’s complicated and full-bodied (even some “fatness”), with honey notes, stone fruit, melon and apricots. It has a stunning mouthfeel, and it is vitally recent.
The wine has been involved with its lees for 11 months. That is one thing Daniel introduced again from France. “I prefer to hold the white wine involved with its lees so long as doable.” He stirs the lees (batonnage) a number of occasions every week to start with and as soon as every week within the final months to guard the wine from oxidation.
La Capelleta is from a small plot in Gratallops, going through south-east. It receives the primary rays of the morning solar. It’s a pretty heat space, and harvest is early within the season, the primary week of September for 2019.
Because the vineyards are on a slope with a robust inclination, there’s a large distinction in maturity. “The highest of the plot, dry and scorching, offers us the candied apricot and pear traits”, remarks Daniel, “and the underside, extra humid and brisker, offers us the acidity essential to steadiness the entire.”
We ended the tasting with Mas Igneus’ two premium crimson wines, Costers l’Ermita and Costers de Pobleda, each from classic 2013 and extraordinary wines. New vintages will quickly be launched.
Costers de l’Ermita, with 100% carignan, is traditional in model, with tobacco and cedarwood aromas, balanced, with a wonderful tannic construction. It has a recent, lengthy, scrumptious end.
Costers de Pobleda, with 95% carignan and 5% syrah, is full-bodied, with ripe fruit (however not overripe), natural notes, tobacco and various tannins nonetheless. It finishes on a recent and lingering notice.
It will likely be thrilling to see the place the brand new winemaker and the brand new proprietor take this already glorious vineyard sooner or later.
—Britt Karlsson
[ad_2]
Source link
