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Throughout the Celtic Tiger years, I went on quite a lot of journeys to southeast Spain, barely lingering within the coastal resorts earlier than heading inland to the new mountainous hinterland. At the moment the world produced mind-boggling quantities of cheap jug wine, bought merely as vino de mesa or desk wine.
Hearsay had it a few of these wines discovered their manner into the lighter, much less beneficiant wines produced farther north. There have been some quality-minded producers, however because the wines turned extra formidable, the degrees of alcohol, tannin and new oak elevated, in order that a lot of them have been unbalanced and unsightly to drink.
The journeys got here to an finish with the monetary disaster, however since then the area seems to have remodeled itself. Producers now choose earlier, or have moved to greater altitudes and cooler climates, the place they can make far lighter, extra enticing wines.
Over the previous 12 months my favorite lockdown purple wines have been Vermell from Celler del Roure (€17) and Clos Lojen (€16) from Bodegas Ponce, each out there from independents. All the wines from these two producers are price searching for out, however I’ve featured them earlier than, so this week I’ve gone for options.
A number of the grape varieties are much less well-known, such because the Verdil used within the Neleman featured right here, and the Doradilla, which makes up a part of the mix for La Raspa. I’m not certain both will ever compete with Sauvignon Blanc for recognition on the world stage, however they do produce good, refreshing white wines.
Different grape varieties are better-known. Monastrell aka Mourvèdre is planted within the south of France, together with Bandol and the Châteauneuf-du-Pape, and Australia, too, but it surely originated in Spain, the place it’s broadly grown in Jumilla, Yecla and Valencia. It could actually make wonderful wines, though some will be earthy, sturdy and firmly tannic, requiring just a few years’ bottle age. Bobal is one other native speciality that we’ve coated right here earlier than (together with the cheap Toro Loco wines from Aldi), which many imagine has actual potential. O’Briens has a spread of wines from Luzon, and independents inventory the well-made wines from Castaño in Yecla and Casa Castillo in Jumilla.
The 2 white wines featured right here have a freshness and vibrancy that may counsel cool local weather. One is from Malaga, in deepest sunny Andalusia, however produced from north-facing vines rising at 600m to protect aroma and freshness. The reds are supple and rounded, with ripe however by no means jammy fruit. They’re excellent for heat climate consuming.
Neleman Natural Vineyards Viognier Verdil 2020, Valencia
12%, €14
Flippantly fragrant with delicate nectarine fruits, vibrant acidity and a crisp, dry end. Drink this with lighter seafood dishes, reminiscent of grilled plaice with lemon and parsley butter.
From Wines Direct, Mullingar, winesdirect.ie.
Soplo 2018, Rafael Cambra, Valencia (Natural)
13.5%, €15
An totally scrumptious aromatic purple wine with bouncy vibrant purple fruits, an earthy contact and a easy, straightforward end. Nice worth for cash. Strive it with all method of meaty pasta dishes and roast hen or pork.
From A Style of Spain, D1; 64wine, Glasthule, 64wine.com; Baggot Road Wines, D4, baggotstreetwines.com; Blackrock Cellar, Blackrock, blackrockcellar.com; Sweeneys D3, sweeneysd3.ie; Clontarf Wines, D3, clontarfwines.ie; D-Six Wines, D6, peggykellys.ie; La Touche, Greystones, latouchewines4u.ie; Lilliput Shops, D7, lilliputstores.com; Margadh, Howth, margadhfoodandwine.ie; thenudewineco.ie.
La Raspa 2019, Sierra de Malaga, Viñedos Verticales
13%, €18.50
Seductive white flower aromas, mild succulent citrus and pears with a vigorous acidity. A really moreish wine. Good summer time consuming by itself or with some fishy tapas earlier than dinner.
From A Style of Spain, D1; 64wine, Glasthule, 64wine.com; Baggot Road Wines, D4, baggotstreetwines.com; Blackrock Cellar, Blackrock, blackrockcellar.com; That is It, Ennistymon, thisisitennisytmon.com; Sweeneys D3, sweeneysd3.ie; Bradleys Off-licence, Cork, bradleysofflicence.ie; Free Canon, D2, loosecanon.ie; Margadh, Howth, margadhfoodandwine.ie.
Pepe Mendoza Paisaje Mediterraneo, Alicante 2019
14%, €23.95
An attractive, medium-bodied wine brimming with scrumptious pure damson and blackcurrant fruits; ripe and supple with good size. Strive it with arroz con pollo or vegetarian Spanish rice.
From Avoca, Ballsbridge & Rathcoole, avoca.com; Baggot Road Wines, D4, baggotstreetwines.com; Blackrock Cellar, Blackrock, blackrockcellar.com; Deveney’s, D14, deveneys.ie; D-Six Wines, D6, peggykellys.ie; McHughs, D5, mchughs.ie; Mitchell & Son, D1, Sandycove, and Avoca, Kilmacanogue & Dunboyne, mitchellandson.com; Sweeneys D3, sweeneysd3.ie.
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