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It’s a debate that has been passionately argued by culinary philosophers for hundreds of years: Do sandwiches style higher when eaten standing over the kitchen sink, or when they’re picked up from a paper plate?
I’m firmly within the kitchen-sink camp. To me, paper plates are virtually no higher for sandwiches than china plates, that are virtually like consuming them with knives and forks.
I spent a number of time standing in entrance of my sink the opposite day once I made six forms of sandwiches. All of them have been scorching sandwiches — that’s, every one needed to be heated earlier than it was able to be eaten. I’d wish to say that was my authentic intention, however truly the reality of it got here to me like this:
Hillary the photographer: “Hey, all of those are scorching sandwiches.”
Me: “Actually? Huh. What have you learnt about that?”
So I undoubtedly deliberately got down to make six scorching sandwiches, every uncommon in its personal means. Some have been comparatively simple; some took extra effort and time, some have been decidedly fancy. All have been awfully good.
I started with a spicy fried rooster sandwich, which I modeled on the rooster sandwich bought at Popeye’s. The fast-food chain started promoting the sandwiches two years in the past, and so they instantly turned insanely in style. No less than one individual lower in line to get one and was stabbed to loss of life.
I wished to re-create the sandwich at dwelling, however I confronted a serious obstacle: I’ve by no means truly had one. I like Popeye’s, however I haven’t been to at least one in years. Nonetheless, I figured if they will make the sandwich, so can I.
I started by marinating rooster breasts in a single day in a buttermilk brine flavored with a little bit of paprika, garlic powder and onion powder. Once I was able to prepare dinner, I breaded them in a combination of flour, cayenne pepper, salt and garlic and onion powders, so each the breasts and the fried breading can be extremely flavored.
Slightly web analysis revealed Popeye’s serves theirs with spiced mayonnaise on a brioche bun, with lettuce, tomato and pickles. The pickles are apparently essential. So I served mine the identical means. The pickles, I’m joyful to report, have been key.
The sandwich was merely spectacular, pretty much as good because the well-known model served at Popeye’s. So far as I do know.
A lot simpler to make, and each bit as intriguing, was a sandwich created by celeb chef Jamie Oliver, Tacky Kimchi Toastie.
Sure, the identify is a bit of tacky, itself. However the concept is, as Oliver would say, sensible. It’s a grilled cheese sandwich with finely chopped kimchi within the center, and extra bits of crunchy cheese on one aspect.
Spicy, salty kimchi, with that unmistakable funk that solely comes from the Korean crimson pepper referred to as gochugaru, seems to be the right foil for the sturdy richness of sharp cheddar cheese. And the crunchy bits solely make it that a lot better.
The identify of the following sandwich I made provides a sign of what it entails: Purple Wine-Braised Flank Steak With Roasted Peppers, Onions and Gruyère.
Not solely is the flank steak braised in crimson wine for 21/2 hours, crimson peppers must be roasted — you might use crimson peppers out of a jar, but it surely gained’t style pretty much as good — and crimson onions are grilled in a skillet earlier than you possibly can even start to assemble the sandwich.
But the sandwich is so brilliantly balanced, so deeply satisfying to the soul, that it’s one other affirmation of the adage that’s so typically true: The extra effort that goes into cooking a dish, the higher it tastes. It’s so good the restaurant that created it, Wichcraft in New York, needed to cease promoting it as a result of it was too in style and took too lengthy to make, making a backlog within the kitchen.
I subsequent determined to make a Reuben sandwich my means, which is to say with out Russian dressing. I’ve by no means understood why folks put Russian dressing on Reubens. To my palate, the mayo-ketchup combination blows out all the opposite flavors within the sandwich. Your eyes inform you that you’re consuming corned beef, Swiss cheese and sauerkraut, however your tongue tells you it’s Russian dressing all the best way.
As an alternative of Russian dressing, I used deli mustard, which is much extra wise and so far as I’m involved is the one worthwhile condiment to go along with corned beef. I additionally used pastrami as an alternative of corned beef, as a result of why not? Both one works particularly nicely with this dish.
In the meantime, it’s my thought of opinion that no self-respecting New York-style deli ought to even trouble carrying Russian dressing, besides perhaps for a salad. Possibly.
My subsequent providing, just like the flank-steak one, got here from Wichcraft. It’s referred to as Gruyère With Caramelized Onions, and mainly it’s French onion soup turned inside out.
Slowly caramelized onions are within the center, surrounded by clean, melted gruyère cheese. The croutons that often float within the soup as a base for the cheese are represented, in fact, by the items of bread that make up the skin of the sandwich.
It’s simply as delectable as a well-crafted bowl of French onion soup, and you may eat it standing in entrance of your sink.
My closing sandwich was a Silky Omelet Baguette, wherein a silky omelet is inserted right into a baguette and topped with a easy, fast salsa.
The omelet is silky as a result of it’s made rapidly, with out fuss, with solely cheddar cheese, chives and curry powder to taste it. The salsa additionally comes collectively in a minute; it’s simply cherry tomatoes and slices of jalapeño tossed with olive oil and crimson wine vinegar.
Nothing could possibly be simpler, or no less than not many issues. But it’s versatile, a breakfast you might eat for lunch or dinner or a late-night snack.
It’s a sandwich for all seasons, a testomony to the truth that you possibly can put just about something between slices of bread and give you a winner.
THE RECIPES
RED WINE-BRAISED FLANK STEAK, WITH ROASTED PEPPERS,
ONIONS AND GRURÈYE
Yield: 4 sandwiches
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 pound flank steak
1 medium carrot, lower into giant cube
1/2 white onion, lower into giant cube
2 garlic cloves, quartered
2 to three cups crimson wine
2 giant sprigs recent thyme
2 teaspoons salt, divided
1 crimson bell pepper
1 giant crimson onion, sliced crosswise into 3/4-inch wheels
2 tablespoons olive oil
1/2 teaspoon sherry vinegar
4 ciabatta rolls
8 slices Gruyère cheese
1. Preheat oven to 350 levels.
2. Select an ovenproof skillet (with a lid) or Dutch oven giant sufficient to suit the meat in snugly however nonetheless lie flat. Add 2 tablespoons of the vegetable oil to the skillet over excessive warmth. When the oil begins to shimmer, add the meat and prepare dinner for 5-7 minutes on both sides, till deep brown in colour. Take away the meat and put aside.
3. Cut back the warmth to medium-high. Add the carrot, onion and garlic, and sauté till the greens begin to brown however are nonetheless agency. Return the meat to the pan, and add sufficient crimson wine to come back 3/4 of the best way up the aspect of the meat.
4. Add the thyme and 1 teaspoon of the salt. Cowl and switch to the oven. Braise the meat for two 1/2 hours, checking often to ensure the liquid doesn’t dry out (if it does, add extra wine). The meat ought to be very tender and comfortable sufficient to tug aside with a fork. Switch to a plate to relaxation and funky.
5. Whereas the meat cooks, roast the crimson pepper over a excessive flame, turning often with tongs, till charred throughout. Place in a bowl, cowl with plastic wrap and relaxation 20 minutes. Rub off the charred elements along with your fingers (some charred elements are fantastic) and slice pepper into strips. Should you do not need a fuel range, place pepper on a foil-covered baking sheet and place within the 350-degree oven, turning often, till comfortable and wrinkled throughout, about 45-55 minutes. Take away and, when cool sufficient to the touch, slice pepper into strips.
6. Brush the crimson onion with the remaining 1 tablespoon vegetable oil. In a skillet over excessive warmth, grill the onion — with out separating into particular person rings — till charred on the skin and barely cooked on the within. Place in a bowl and separate into rings. Add the peppers, olive oil, sherry vinegar and remaining 1 teaspoon salt, and blend nicely.
7. Pressure the liquid the meat was cooked in right into a bowl. With two forks, separate the meat into chunky strings and roughly lower them crosswise into 2- to 3-inch items. Mix the meat with the juices, and coat nicely.
8. Slice the ciabatta rolls in half. Place 1 slice of cheese on every backside and high half. Prepare the meat on the underside halves and peppers on the highest halves, and place all of the roll items within the 350-degree oven. Cook dinner till the cheese is melted. Place the highest halves on the underside halves, lower in half and serve.
GRUYÈRE WITH
CARAMELIZED ONIONS
Yield: 4 servings
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 medium yellow onions, halved and lower lengthwise into 1/8-inch slices
1 tablespoon chopped recent oregano or 1 1/2 teaspoons dried
Salt and pepper
16 slices Gruyère cheese
8 slices rye bread
2 tablespoons butter
1. In a skillet over medium-high warmth, add the oil and onions. Add the oregano, and season with salt and pepper. Cook dinner, stirring, till onions flip mild brown. Cut back the warmth and proceed to prepare dinner till the onions are comfortable and golden brown, 30-45 minutes. These might be saved refrigerated for as much as 1 week.
2. Place two slices of cheese on every of 4 slices of bread. Put 1/4 cup of the onions on high of every, and high every sandwich with one other two slices of cheese and slice of bread.
3. Soften 1/2 tablespoon of the butter in a skillet over medium-high warmth (in case your skillet is giant sufficient to make two sandwiches at a time, use 1 tablespoon of the butter). Place one (or two) sandwiches within the butter, and press down calmly till the underside is golden brown and toasted. Flip and prepare dinner different aspect till the cheese has melted.
CHEESY KIMCHI TOASTIE
Yield: 1 serving
2 slices comfortable bread
1 1/2 ounces grated sharp cheddar cheese, divided
1 1/2 ounces good-quality kimchi, finely chopped
1. Unfold 1/2 ounce of the cheese over 1 slice of bread. Unfold the kimchi over the cheese, proper to the perimeters of the bread. Unfold one other 1/2 ounce of the cheese over the kimchi, and high it with the remaining slice of bread.
2. Put a nonstick skillet on medium warmth. When it’s scorching, prepare dinner the sandwich for two minutes on both sides, till it’s fantastically golden. Take away sandwich from the pan. Scatter the remaining 1/2 ounce of cheese on the pan, then place the sandwich again on high. Take away after 30 seconds and switch over onto plate to disclose your good-looking cheese crown.
SPICY FRIED CHICKEN SANDWICH
Yield: 4 servings
2 cups buttermilk
1 teaspoon plus 2 tablespoons salt, divided
1 3/4 teaspoons garlic powder, divided
1 3/4 teaspoons onion powder, divided
1/2 teaspoon paprika
Oil, for frying
1 cup all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon plus 1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper, divided, see word
4 small boneless rooster breasts (2 kilos)
1/2 cup mayonnaise
4 brioche buns
2 dill pickles
2 leaves of lettuce, every torn into 4 items
1 medium tomato, sliced
Word: Should you don’t need it spicy, merely get rid of the cayenne pepper.
1. In a big bowl, combine collectively buttermilk, 1 teaspoon of the salt, 1/2 teaspoon of the garlic powder, 1/2 teaspoon of the onion powder and the paprika. Add the rooster breast and refrigerate no less than 4 hours or, ideally, in a single day.
2. Pour 1 inch of the oil into a big cast-iron skillet or Dutch oven. Warmth oil to 350 levels (when you don’t have expertise, you’ll want a frying or sweet thermometer to ensure it’s the proper temperature). In the meantime, put the flour in a paper or plastic bag together with 1 tablespoon of the cayenne pepper, the remaining 2 tablespoons of salt, 1 teaspoon of the garlic powder and 1 teaspoon of the onion powder. Shake nicely to mix.
3. Take away the rooster from the marinade and place items within the bag with the flour combination. Shake to coat totally, wait 1-2 minutes, and shake once more. Fastidiously place the rooster, skin-side down, within the scorching oil (you’ll have to do that in batches). Fry, turning often, till golden brown throughout and inner temperature is 165 levels. For finest outcomes, attempt to preserve the oil temperature round 325 levels. The rooster will probably be carried out in 10-Quarter-hour, relying on the dimensions of the breasts. Take away to a plate coated with paper towels or a wire rack over a baking sheet.
4. In a small bowl, combine collectively mayonnaise, the remaining 1/4 teaspoon cayenne, the remaining 1/4 teaspoon garlic powder and the remaining 1/4 teaspoon onion powder. Unfold 1 tablespoon mayonnaise combination on high and backside halves of every bun. Slice pickles into 1/4-inch rounds and canopy backside bun with a single layer of three or 4 slices (chances are you’ll not want all the pickles). Place a fried rooster breast on every bun, high with two items of lettuce and 1 slice of tomato. Add the highest half of the bun, and serve.
SILKY OMELET BAGUETTE
Yield: 1 serving
1/2 baguette
1/2 cup cherry tomatoes, quartered
1/4 to 1/2 jalapeño pepper, thinly sliced
Salt and pepper, to style
1/2 tablespoon olive oil
1/2 tablespoon crimson wine vinegar
2 giant eggs
1/2 tablespoon butter
1/2 ounce sharp cheddar cheese, grated
1 tablespoon chopped recent chives
1/2 teaspoon curry powder
1. Slice the baguette in half, lengthwise. Place the cherry tomatoes and jalapeño in a bowl with a pinch of salt and black pepper, together with the oil and vinegar. Toss collectively nicely, and put aside.
2. Beat the eggs nicely. Put a big, nonstick skillet on excessive warmth and, after 1 minute, add the butter. When the butter has melted, pour the eggs into the new pan and rapidly swirl to cowl the bottom. Scatter over with the cheese, chives and curry powder.
3. After a complete of 1 minute within the pan, the eggs ought to be simply set (they need to be yellow, not golden brown). Angle the pan and use a spatula to swiftly roll up the omelet and stuff contained in the baguette halves. High with the salsa.
DAN’S REUBEN
Yield: 1 sandwich
1 tablespoon deli-style mustard
2 slices rye bread
1/4 pound corned beef or pastrami
1/4 cup sauerkraut, drained
2-3 slices Swiss cheese
Unfold mustard on 1 slice of bread. High with corned beef, sauerkraut, cheese and the remaining slice of bread. Warmth a skillet over medium-high warmth. When scorching, add sandwich, top-side down. Cook dinner till backside is golden brown. Flip and prepare dinner till backside slice is toasted and cheese has melted. Serve with a pickle.
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