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Even earlier than the grapes are harvested, it appears apparent that 2021 has not been a very good yr for grape growers all over the world. Already we all know that the Sauvignon Blanc crop in New Zealand is down 20 per cent (though high quality is outstanding, apparently).
In France, extreme spring frosts adopted by a moist summer season signifies that the annual harvest might be down by as a lot as 30 per cent, the bottom determine since 1977. Vineyards in California, together with Napa and Sonoma, which had been hit by fires final yr, are actually affected by drought, with irrigation banned in lots of areas. Fires have raged in Greece, and it’s sure some vineyards (in addition to houses and wineries) have been destroyed.
This might not come at a worse time for Greece, because the nation has been quietly reinventing itself over the previous decade or so. In case your reminiscences are of low cost retsina purchased on vacation, then you’ll be in for a really nice shock as Greece has an enormous treasure trove of fascinating historic grape varieties, some with nice potential. I’ve learn that some high-quality producers are even reviving retsina, a mode of wine that goes again greater than 2,000 years. I look ahead to making an attempt one.
Right here in Eire, Pam and Homosexual Cooney of Grapevine in Dalkey blazed the path with Greek wines. I’ve featured the wonderful Kir-Yianni wines right here earlier than and they’re effectively price making an attempt out. Extra just lately, winesdirect.ie has began to import an excellent vary, together with the rosé featured right here, as has the corkscrew.ie. Look out, too, for the Lyrarakis wines, together with the Voila Assyrtiko (€18, independents).
Assyrtiko is considered one of many indigenous grape varieties, and for the second is the identify on everybody’s lips. Utilizing grapes grown on the volcanic soils on the island of Santorini, the wines could be extraordinary. The Gaia wine featured right here is considered one of my favorite white wines – not low cost, however I’d rank it alongside many positive white Burgundies and grand cru Rieslings. O’Briens additionally shares Monograph (€16.95), an Assyrtiko from the mainland, the Gaia rosé (€15.95) and the full-bodied pink Agiorgitiko (€18.95).
In addition to Assyrtiko, this week I characteristic two wines primarily based on Roditis, one of the vital extensively planted varieties in Greece, generally utilized in retsina. It’s grown in high-altitude vineyards and produces steely dry wines; on hotter websites it may well have an interesting richness. Lastly, Malagousia, generally likened to Chardonnay, can produce really thrilling white wines too.
To take pleasure in these at their finest, I can consider nothing higher than some summery Greek meals; mezze, salty savoury salads and grilled oily fish.
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M&S Discovered Moschofilero Roditis 2020, Peloponnese
12%, €12.50
Gentle and floral with beguiling honeyed fruits, refreshing citrus acidity, ending dry. Excellent summer season ingesting by itself or with some Greek mezze. You possibly can additionally stick with Greece and take a look at the pink M&S Discovered Xinomavro & Mandilaria mix.
From Marks & Spencer, markandspencer.com
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At Sea Roditis 2019, Giannikos Vineyard, PGI Peloponnese (Natural)
12.5%, €18.95
A part of vary imported by Mitchell & Son, it is a very enticing crisp dry white with zesty grapefruit and recent juicy melon fruits. Strive it with a Greek salad, a number of dolmades and a few flatbread dipped in taramasalata.
From Mitchell & Son, D1, Sandycove, and Avoca, Kilmacanogue & Dunboyne, mitchellandson.com.
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Kamara Pure Rosé “Stalisma” (Natural)
12.5%, €24.95
Created from a mix of 1 pink grape (Xinomavro), and two white varieties (Malagouzia and Assyrtiko), it is a crowd-pleasing fruit-filled rosé with wild strawberries and redcurrants. Fried fish and summer season salads sound perfect matches.
From Wines Direct, Mullingar, winesdirect.ie.
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Gaia Wild Ferment Assyrtiko, Santorini
13.5%, €29.95 A exceptional wine with great complicated floral aromas and a flinty contact; wealthy creamy nectarine fruits shot by way of with a crisp linear mineral acidity, grilled hazelnuts and a wild contact too. Strive it with courgette fritters, grilled prawns, pink mullet, wild sea bass or calamari.
From O’Briens, obrienswine.ie
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